Learn Afghan

Greetings from Kabul!
I've been working in the Ministry of education for some weeks now, and starting to feel like I'm getting to grips with the new surroundings, people and situation. I've managed to argue for a wide advisory brief with the Minister and Deputy Minister, so I'm involved in a large number of different work contexts, on top of the Danish education programme which I manage day-to-day. It's also pretty wide, with teacher education, curriculum development, school building, materials and resources development, and management development, so keeps me busy!
Other things happening - working with my colleague, Tony, on a new Education Law; MoE strategic planning, policy, vision, mission stuff; structural reform; internal systems and processes - the Minister - Hanif Atmar - is the fifth in four years for MoE and he's determined to bring some lasting change - needless to say, it's all go.


Living and working in Kabul is fairly tough, in the sense that the situation here demands a certain level of precaution. The Danish embassy and Adam Smith International provide secure living and travel arrangements. Our houses are guarded 27/7 and we are driven and escorted everywhere - no popping out to the corner store. Or the local pub, for that matter, because the government has recently slapped a total ban on the sale of alcohol and stocks are running low in the houses - eek!
Generally speaking the country looks fairly beaten up with the signs of conflict still very evident - new buildings in the last few years really stick out in the landscape. Kabul is very high (c. 7000ft) and dry with a desolate look about the landscape. The hills are covered in mud-brick and adobe dwellings where many of the locals live - the tracks must be treacherous in the winter snows. Traditional dress is still very common, and many of the women wear the full burkas with just a small veil over the eyes. Yellow taxis, toyota mini-buses and buses of all shapes and sizes make up much of the city traffic - which is totally insane, and makes Rome traffic look like an organised procession. For example, the policy at roundabouts is to take the shortest route to the exit you want, so there is very little actual going around - more just driving directly at the cars in the way regardless of direction.




A typical crossroad scene....

I'll be back to update the site soon with details of my work and lifestyle...